clinique vestimentaire
for a new paradigm of creation & custom-made clothing design
about this contribution
Today, the two techniques for designing and making clothes are generally opposed to each other: made-to-measure and ready-to-wear. While the latter imposes a size category and requires the individual to adapt, the former is adapted to the person. The research involved in Jeanne Vicerial’s Clinique vestimentaire merges the two approaches, converging to form new systems for the design and making of clothes, creating a new paradigm: “ready-to-measure.” This model combines the speed of ready-to-wear with the unique, specific nature of made-to-measure, in which the clothing-object is connected to the body of the person who wears it.
This system of designing and making clothes is based on a new approach to composing thread, partly “bio-inspired”: tricotissage, or “knitting-weaving,” between knitting—a single thread—and weaving, which enables the creation of a textile, assembled in a similar way to human muscular tissue.
In collaboration with the mechatronics department at MINES ParisTech – PSL, led by Yvon Gaignebet, the Clinique vestimentaire research project has developed a prototype knitting-weaving machine. A tool for creation and production, the unit is a computer-driven mechanical system for knitting-weaving made-to measure clothing at a semi-industrial scale with no waste.
Dialogue begins with the first encounter with the customer for taking measurements, through verbal communication (consciously expressed desires and sensations) but also non-verbal communication (postures and behavior). Measures that take into account not only anatomical considerations but also anthropological, physiological, and psycho-sociological elements. The production of the garment by the knitting-weaving table is then done according to the body’s dimensions translated and interpreted digitally and electronically. During the production process, manual interactions remain possible for adjustments; the machine is also a tool and leaves room for interventions, reviving the classic interactions of the craft. A digital craft with the ultimate goal of designing a custom garment, without remnants, with a know-how focused on the precision of the “cut” and assembly, and delivering personalized clothing with and for the customer.
More recently, Sculptures vestimentaires continues this research, aiming to give women their place and voice with regards to fashion, norms, and sizing. More recently, Quarantaine is a formal and visual response to the health crisis, at a time when closing and distancing are the order of the day. A work is being created every day for 40 days using the only body available—the confined body of its author.
credits
author: Jeanne Vicerial, designer and SACRe Design PhD, École des Arts Décoratifs, Paris – PSL
Research & Creation project carried out at EnsadLab (thesis supervision by Prof. Jean-François Bassereau and Dr. Aurélie Mosse), in collaboration with the mechatronics department of MINES ParisTech – PSL directed by Yvon Gaignebet
editorial mediation: Gwenaëlle Lallemand
graphic designer: Arp is Arp Studio (Dimitri Charrel)
photo credits: see below
sponsors: this contribution is supported by the Chaire Beauté.s PSL
rights and references
illustrations rights and references
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Copyright: Photos reproduced with permission from the author in 2022.
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique vestimentaire, 2015. © Béryl Libault de la Chevasnerie, École des Arts Décoratifs
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2017. © Vivien Bertin
Jeanne Vicerial, Details of the tricotissage, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2016. © Clara Giaminardi for Bullet Magazine
András Szunyoghy, Le Grand Cours d’anatomie artistique, 2000. Drawings. © Adagp, Paris, 2022. © Ullmann Medien GmbH. Rolandsecker Weg 30, 53619 Rheinbreitbach, Germany. All rights reserved.
Jeanne Vicerial, Pattern of the dorsal muscle tissue reproduced in thread by means of tricotissage and affixed to the image above. © Adagp, Paris, 2022. © Ullmann Medien GmbH, Rolandsecker Weg 30, 53619 Rheinbreitbach, Germany.
Jeanne Vicerial, collection Lignes Noires in collaboration with Jennifer Chambaret, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2017. © Vivien Bertin
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2015. © Marie-Elodie Fallourd, École des Arts Décoratifs
Jeanne Vicerial, 155km long thread dress, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2015. © Thibaut Della Gaspera
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2015. © Maxime Imbert, École des Arts Décoratifs
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2015. © Maxime Imbert.
Graphic design: Arp is Arp Studio (Dimitri Charrel)
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2019. © Mathieu Faluomi.
Graphic design: Arp is Arp Studio (Dimitri Charrel)
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2019. © Joseph Schiano di Lombo
Jeanne Vicerial, Clinique Vestimentaire, 2019. © Aleksandr Kontini
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Vicerial, Jeanne. 2023. “Clinique Vestimentaire: for a New Paradigm of Creation & Custom-Made Clothing Design.” .able journal: https://able-journal.org/clinique-vestimentaire
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Vicerial, Jeanne. “Clinique Vestimentaire: for a New Paradigm of Creation & Custom-Made Clothing Design.” .able journal, 2023. https://able-journal.org/clinique-vestimentaire
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VICERIAL, Jeanne. Clinique Vestimentaire: for a New Paradigm of Creation & Custom-Made Clothing Design. .able journal [online]. 2023. Available from: https://able-journal.org/clinique-vestimentaire
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Vicerial, J. (2023). Clinique Vestimentaire: for a New Paradigm of Creation & Custom-Made Clothing Design. .able journal. https://able-journal.org/clinique-vestimentaire
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